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How to construct an Upholstered Headboard with Shirred Border
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Terry Kowatch, owner of Touch of Fabric, shares her method in the following photos with accompanying instructions
Make paper template
Cut border away from pattern. This border is 6" wide
Trace shape on plywood. Cut plywood with center center shape drawn with sharpie marker for placement of foam. Plywood was cut 3" larger then mattress width. The bedding will add about 1.5" on each side of the mattress, so the headboard doesn't look too small. See photo title "1x8 frame on back" before cutting
1x8 frame on back. 1x8 lumber was placed all around the outside of the plywood. The top piece of 1x8 was put on before the shape was cut and then the two pieces were cut together with a jig saw. Side and bottom pieces of 1x8 lumber were added.
Glue foam. Glue 2" foam onto plywood where pattern was traced
Turn corner. It will look rounded when done even when you turn the corner at a 90 degree angle
Staple Foam. Staple foam all around edges making sure to catch both the top and bottom edge of foam with the staple, if just one edge is stapled it will rip out.
All stapled. Make sure to do an ant trail of staples, placing staples close together.
Batting. Cover with dacron batting and staple and trim down to staples.
Pre-line. I did pre line with interlining. I had to add seams in the face fabric so pre lining prevented stretching of the face fabric.
Face fabric. Add face fabric and staple.
Add cord all around and leave some tails at both ends.
add shirred fabric, I did use my Johnson ruffler for this place pieces of tack strip up and into the ruffle and cord to snug everything in nice and tight. Use small pieces of tack strip around corners and the other shapes.
the shirring should be long enough to pull around to the back and staple. Yep, I had to add a stretcher piece of fabric. My border is 6" the shirred fabric I doubled to 12" and it still was not long enough. I added another 5" piece of white lining.
staple foam close to shirring and once again staple both edges so it won't rip off. Then the other end of the foam is pinched together and stapled to the top back edge of to spacers (1x8). This foam is 3" larger then the border so after it is stapled it will have a nautral roll to it..
now cover that foam with more batting.
border is now completed and ready to pull shirring over and staple to back.
Make sure that the shirring is long enough or you'll have to add extra like shown here.
black-out lining stapled onto the back; bring as close to edge as possible.
cover staples with gimp and glue on.
This headboard is wall mounted. A 1x4x66" was riped down the middle and on a 45 degree angle. On the headboard the pointed side is out and pointing down.
the hex head screws had to be changed to flat head screws. This board ends up flat against the wall.
this piece of wood 1x is placed at bottom to keep headboard out and even with the bracket above.
placed on wall with point side out and pointing up. I then put the two pieces of board together, interlocking their angles while the headboard was laying on my table. So the top is screwed into the headboard and the bottom piece of wood is pushed up snug to the top and then I measured to the bottom of that board which was 12". So this bottom board is mounted on the wall the height of the mattress 26" plus another 12"= 38" is where the bottom of this board will be mounted.
this part of the board gets mounted on the wall, point facing out and up .
close up of wall board.
ready for install!
headboard is 3/4" away from the wall, nice and snug!
Now it's time to make the rest of the bedding!! I really loved doing this upholstered headboard, but Amy Burton's video is a must!
This How-to is Credited to:
Terry Kowatch, owner of Touch of Fabric